Do you fix __________, which is not an electro-acoustic Wurlitzer Electric Piano?
My business is niche to an almost comedic degree.  I specialize in repairing and tuning only Wurlitzer Electric Pianos, which are a specific series of instruments that were made from 1954 through mid-1983. I find that narrowing my focus to these instruments allow me to do the deepest and best possible work.

I do not fix digital pianos. 
If the instrument makes no sound when it is unplugged from the wall, it is probably not something I fix.  I don’t fix Yamaha, Kawaii, Roland, Casio, Suzuki, Kurzweil or Baldwin digital electric pianos.  I do not fix Nords.  I also don’t fix Wurlitzer digital electric pianos, which were made by the Baldwin company starting in the later 1980’s.  I recommend that you contact the company that made your piano, and get a list of local authorized repair people.

I do not fix other Wurlitzer products.
I do not fix Wurlitzer player pianos, acoustic pianos, console organs, Funmaker organs or digital pianos.  I do not fix Wurlitzer Jukeboxes, or other classroom band instruments with Wurlitzer branding on them.

I do not fix Hammond Organs, or other electric organs. I do not fix digital or analog synthesizers.
Self explanatory.

I do not yet fix other electro-acoustic keyboard instruments, for the most part.
The obvious one would be Fender Rhodes pianos, and Hohner Pianets, and eventually I may expand my business to include those.  I would currently consider fixing Hohner Clavinets on a case-by-case basis, as I do know how to do so.  I have not explored Yahama CP-70’s or CP-80’s, though I would explore the option under the right circumstances.  Right now I have my hands full repairing Wurlitzer Electric (Electronic) Pianos.

I want to strip and repaint my Wurlitzer Electric Piano.  Do you have any tips?

Perhaps at some point I will share some tips on cosmetic upgrades to Wurlitzer Electronic Pianos.  I’ve done a bit of this, but frankly it’s not my wheelhouse. Others in my field are more expert at that.  But there is one thing I WILL say, like a broken record:

DO NOT STRIP THE BLACK PAINT FROM THE INTERIOR BASE OF ANY WURLITZER ELECTRIC PIANO. Do not paint over this paint.  (This applies to ALL Wurlitzer Electric Pianos, 1954-1983.). Also, don’t strip the thick textured paint from the inside lid, pre-200 series.

Why?  Because this is all crucial conductive paint.  It is supposed to be wired, using grounding straps, to the grounding and shielding network of the instrument.  It serves the same purpose as the grounded metal hum shields that hover above the keys.

If you disable the connection between this paint and the grounding network, the instrument will be much more prone to hum, and to RF interference.

As it is, this paint can flake off and lose its conductivity over time.  In addition, blocks which have cracked off the base of a piano and have been glued back on can lose their connection to the shielding paint.  So, these are things to look out for.

If you have removed this paint, you should replace it.  If you have painted over it, you must sand away enough of it to restore contact with the grounding network.

As a related plea, do NOT paint the metal rail which holds the electronics in a 200/200A series instrument with decorative, non-conductive paint.  That metal rail must conduct crucial grounding electrical pathways, as well.

These particular factoids are deserving of a much more nuanced essay.  But I’m praying that this placeholder will save some people some grief.